Bike Trip Day 5 - Costa Brava

Shuttle to Camallera 1½ Hours
Biking Options:

Monells Route: 18 Miles* (660’ elevation gain)
Hotel Trias Route: 35 miles (2,200’)
Hotel Trias Extended Route: 43 Miles* (3,180’)
*with shuttle

We got into the van for a lift into the Alt Empordà (or “Upper Empordà”), and the rural northern section of the Costa Brava. Surrealist Salvador Dalí was born and buried here, and it’s this country landscape that inspired him in his early years.  We started riding in Camallera on rolling terrain, passing through small villages featuring Baroque-style churches, town squares and ancient fortresses.

The landscape is much more open fields and olive groves of the Mediterranean coast.
Some of us stopped at the Gala Dalí Castle, a testament to the artist’s adoration for Gala, his
wife and muse. Salvador Dalí spent a good part of his life restoring this medieval palace, decorating the rooms with his Magritte-like hyper-surrealism. The castle would be his last workshop and a burial place for Gala. 


Lunch in the town of Monells. We also stop in the towns of Baix Empordà, Cruïlles and La Bisbal - which are known as Catalonia’s pottery-making capital. After a hefty climb to a pass in Les Gavarres nature reserve, we finally smell the Mediterranean air of Costa Brava. On a fabulously long and graceful descent to the coast, it reminded me of the 17-mile drive in Pacific Grove, CA.   We found a spectacularly un-Catalonian pizza place at Tamariu Beach (finally no ham in sight!), and hung out at the very popular beach that featured nude sunbathers. 


Some of us tired ones shuttled to the final and most beautiful (IMHO) inn of the trip, Hotel Trias.  The less tired ones pedaled back up the hill to yet another longer ride option.  Just before dinner, we gathered in the hotel bar to toast our adventures over mint mojitos (yummmmmy!) and a farewell dinner of fresh seafood and (oh well) traditional Catalan recipes.  

In the Gala Dali Castle

Dali's last work in his studio

Dali Garden

Hamlet of Monells

La Bisbal ceramics

FIrst view of the Costa Brava

Tamariu Beach

Video - Overlooking Tamariu Beach.   Richard rode an extra hill option and captured the scene from above.

Tamariu Beach

Hotal Trias

Hotel Trias

Danny

A Post-trip Toast

Trias lobby

Trias dining room

In our room

Bike Trip Day 4 - Alta Garrotxa and Camprodon

Biking Options:

Castellfollit de la Roca Route: 28 Miles (1,500’ elevation gain) 
Grèvol Loop: 64 Miles (2,300’)

Leaving the Pyrénées, we get into the Alta Garrotxa volcanic region. Les garrotxes means
“rough lands of bad tracks,”.  There are lots of narrow, tightly winding roads, interesting rock formations, pine and oak forests, farms and cows grazing.
The homes in the town of Beget are built of local stones with red-tile roofs and wooden balconies
surrounding a12th century Church of Sant Cristòfol, and a restored medieval bridge crosses the Trull River. We note the 16th century satelite dishes on rooftops :-) 

Romanesque aquaduct

Although the exteriors are medieval,
the interiors of restaurants and homes are ULTRA Euorpean modern!

Beget

These guys were always at the head of the pack:
Scott, Richard, Matt, Steve and Steve

The sounds of cowbells on the hills..

Bike Trip Day 3 - Ripoll

Biking Options:

Gombrèn Route: 26 Miles* (3700’ elevation gain)
Ripoll Route: 33 Miles* (3800’)
Llanars Route: 52 Miles (4900’)
*with shuttle


Right after a big breakfast (yum!) we did the morning climb up Col de la Creueta, which at 
nearly 6,200 feet is one of the highest paved roads in the Pyrénées. The ascent starts almost as soon as we left Puigcerdà, but the grade isn't too harsh.  Winding slowly up the hillside, the Cerdanya Valley 

slowly recedes behind us and ahead La Molina Ski Resort comes into view. Finally at the top, the anticipation of a blissful 4,000-foot descent on a smooth snaking road was almost too much to grok. I'm sure there were people behind me, but they receded into the distance, too.  A sundrenched valley opened up and we took in amazing views of the Pedraforca peaks. This area is a cyclists mecca for cyclists.  Some of us stopped for a snack in Castellar de n’Hug, where villagers sell honey, salami and giant croissants.  We continued on to Gombrèn, home of the mythical (and quite evil!) Count Arnau. After cruising through the town of Campdevànol, the route turned south following a river gorge. The town of Ripoll (pronounced Ripoy) is the cradle of the Catalan nation, famous for its Benedictine monastery founded in 879 by the father of Catalunya, Wilfred the Hairy - where we were treated to an off-bike tour - and learned the legend of the Catalan flag.  It is comprised of four red stripes on a gold background, dates back to the 9th century and was created when Wilfred the Hairy was laying, fatally wounded during the siege of Barcelona by the Lleida army in 877AD.  His great ally, Charles the Bald, dipped four fingers into Wilfred's wound and drew them across The Hairy's golden shield.

Back on the bikes, we passed through the mountain town of Camprodon, and got a look at the ancient fortified bridge - typical of the area. We reached the settlement of Llanars, located in a side valley at the foot of the mountains. We stayed at Hotel Grevol for the next two nights.  Tonight's dinner was at the hotel; mm more of that hammy Catalan food.  I'm able to eat Escalivada, and manage to steer clear of the white meat that is Everywhere.

Pausing on a 4000' descent.  Richard managed to capture this amazing pan of the alpine countryside.  I was too busy jamming down the mountain at top speed to take any pictures. 

A little piece of heaven for me  :-)

Lunch in Campradon

Our fearless leaders: Eva, Danny, and David

Note the Catalan flag and coat of arms

Reflection on a rectory door

Tower of the monastery

Hotel Grevol in Llanars

Bike Trip Day 2 - Puigcerdà

Biking Options:

Eyne Route: 17 Miles* (3,370’ elevation gain) 
Odeillo Loop: 38 Miles (4,010’) 
Mont-Louis Route: 41 Miles (4,570’) 
Matemale Loop: 60 miles (7,200’) 


We started to climb from the Cerdanya plateau into the French Pyrénées, where  the professionals prep for the Tour de France.  Romanesque churches line the Saint James Trail.  After a rigorous climb to the village of Eyne, we break for lunch at a local crêperie in Mont-Louis, famous for its Vauban citadel, a World Heritage site.  Right after lunch, we head toward the mountain town of Odeillo, which has the 

world’s largest solar furnace.   Richard was one of the few who were up for the challenge of taking the heart-pounding detour loop to Matemale.  We checked into the Hotel del Lago in Puigcerdà - and sat out in chairs in a circle on the lawn to introduce ourselves to each other and get to know the leaders, Eva and Danny, and David Green from N. Carolina who lives locally now.  We were on our own tonight for dinner - we checked out some of the authentic Pyrénées restaurants in town. 

The world's largest solar furnace
with panel of giant mirrors
in the town of Odeillo

Puigcerda

After our first day's ride, we hang out by the lake.  I brought my sketchbook:

Sketch - from the lake across from the hotel

Sketch from the opposite side of the lake

Dinner on our own in the town of Puigcerda.   After much wandering around, we settled in at an interesting cafe with friends on the trip.  The waiter spoke almost no English, but one of us spoke a small amount of Spanish.  We all asked whether the canelloni was vegetarian.  The waiter assured that it was.  After an interminable wait, he brought out the canelloni - and all had beef.  I guess it was vegetarian beef.  We all ordered other dishes, but the canelloni was still on our bill.  Yay!   All of us ordered a "green salad" which turned out to be a Nicoise salad - in every restaurant - complete with the tuna on top.

Bike Trip Day 1 - Cerdanya

Shuttle to Cerdanya 2½ Hours
Biking Options:

Hotel del Lago Route: 16 Miles (660’ elevation gain)
Urtx Route: 23 Miles (1,060’)

After meeting the leaders and the other riders in Barcelona at the Franca train station, we shuttle
northwest toward the soaring Pyrénées. Though Barcelona is Catalonia’s capital and its largest city, there is much more to this semi-autonomous region, and we’re off to explore it all. 

Puicerda

With its distinct culture, laws, traditions, language and cuisine, Catalonia is like nowhere else in Spain.  Heading into the higher elevations of the pre-Pyrénées, we notice the landscape evolves from Mediterranean to alpine. We pass through the Cadí tunnel, a gateway to the mountainous ski region of Cerdanya, en route to the Cadí-Moixeró Nature Reserve, one of Catalonia’s largest parks. Breathtaking limestone cliffs, abundant pine trees and green meadows. 


I realize that I'm not as fast on the uphills as I would like to be, but I was among the first to disappear on the long amazing  downhills!  I was tempted a couple of times to stop to take pictures, but was able to resist and keep barreling down those monsters.

Dinner in the village of Puigcerda.  Danny, our trip leader is from one of the mountain villages, talked about the history of Catalonia.  A favorite traditional food,  "Pan Tomate" is a toasted bagette smeared with garlic and tomato and topped with olive oil.  The thing that looked most palatable to me was the mushroom paella, which was what most of us ordered.  The chef decided to top all the paella with foie gras for the Americans.  Most of us asked that it be removed - it's now illegal to serve foie gras in the US (I think) or it should be!  Anyway, California just banned it.



A short video of Day 1 me on my bike.

Barcelona Day 2

At the Salamander fountain, Park Guell

Took the double decker Barcelona Bus Touristic all over town - a great way to figure out where everything is, such as the Port Vell (old Port), Barcelonetta with all the touristy fish restaurants, Gaudi's always-unfinished Sagrada Familia, Park Guell.  At the hilltop in the park, met a family from NY who when they found out that Richard works for Apple, peppered him with questions about data roaming, etc..   It poured yesterday, but was a beautiful mediterranean day today, 27ºC.  Off the bus in the village of Gracia at a yelp-referred organic restaurant called Origens. Beginning to learn that it's difficult to escape ham or pork in Catalonia.  Up to Montjuic "Mountain of the Jews".  Screwed up in scheduling - mondays the museums are closed, so we missed the Fundacion Miro and the Picasso Museum (rats!)  Sunset was about 9:30 pm.  There was still a lot of celebrating happing in Carrer Nou de la Rambla - until 4am. Party town, and they don't consider themselves Spanish; Barcas 

Park Guell

Park Guell

At Park Guell we were treated to a live jazz performance by Amelie Angebault.   I'm using a video that was shot in May 2012, it's a nicer format than mine, and a whole song.   I bought one of their CDs.Restaurants in Catalonia don't open before 8 or 8:30 pm, and people eat until midnight.  After which, if they are in the city, they walk on La Rambla. 

Barcelona Day 1

After an 8-hr flight to Barcelona, we take a taxi to the Onix Liceo Hotel on Carrer Nou de la Rambla, in the Raval district of the Gotic Quarter off Las Ramblas.  While waiting for our room, we walk off our jetlag at the Placa Reial and Antonio Gaudi's Palau Guell. Gaudí, with a team of artisans and craftspersons he assembled, built a town house for the industrialist Eusebi Güell - right down our street.

Carrer Nou de la Rambla

Placa Reial

There was crazy cheering in the streets all day and night as Spain beats Italy 4-0 to retain the Euro Cup.   A more local and larger rivalry is actually between Madrid and Barcelona. Some Madrileños have long envied Barcelona for reasons other than football or politics.  The Catalan capital has more than just sea and beaches; it has a reputation for being a vanguard of art, architecture and design.  To non-Catalonians, Barcelona is represented most by Gothica, Gaudi, Miro and Picasso.

As we wandered through the narrow streets of the Raval - our eyes out for the famed pickpockets - the sky became dark, the air became heavy, the cafe owners pulled in their chairs and tables, and the rain came down in torrents.  We negotiated the slippery cobblestones while running back to the hotel.  Still jet-lagging, we crashed in the late afternoon and woke up around 9:30pm; headed back out to La Fonda restaurant for fish paella where we chatted with two women from London who gave us our first hint about the ubiquity of ham and pork in the Catalan diet.